Episode 26: Eifel National Park – Where Former Commercial Forests Are Being Transformed Back into Wilderness
A Landscape Regains Its Freedom
Dense beech forests, quiet valleys, clear streams, and sweeping views across forested hills: The Eifel is one of the most diverse natural landscapes in western Germany. Stretching between North Rhine-Westphalia, Rhineland-Palatinate, and the Belgian border, this low mountain range region has long been shaped by forestry, agriculture, and military use.
Today, a remarkable transformation is taking place here. In the Eifel National Park, nature is once again allowed to develop largely without human intervention across ever-larger areas. Former commercial forests are slowly transforming into near-natural habitats, while new ecological opportunities are emerging on land formerly used for military purposes.
It is precisely this process that makes the region appealing for sustainable travel. The Eifel demonstrates that nature conservation does not always mean preserving an untouched landscape. Sometimes the greater challenge lies in giving an intensively used landscape the opportunity to regenerate.
A National Park with a Unique History
The Eifel National Park was established in 2004 and covers approximately 110 square kilometers. It is North Rhine-Westphalia’s first national park and primarily protects beech forests, oak forests, stream valleys, and open-land habitats.
What makes it unique is the history of many of its areas. For decades, forests were used for commercial purposes, and some were planted with fast-growing conifers. Other areas were part of the former Vogelsang military training area.
The establishment of the national park marked the beginning of a long-term process of change. Forests that are far removed from their natural state are being gradually transformed into near-natural forests. In suitable areas, natural processes are to increasingly take their course without forestry interventions.
The goal is not to create a perfect forest as quickly as possible. Rather, the aim is to allow a diverse forest landscape to develop over decades and centuries, in which old trees, deadwood, natural clearings, and different stages of development coexist.
Hiking Through a Changing Landscape
The Eifel offers excellent conditions for a hiking vacation close to nature. The Wilderness Trail, which winds its way through the national park in four stages, is particularly well-known. The route, which is about 85 kilometers long, connects a variety of landscapes and provides an in-depth look at the development of the protected area.
Along the way, dense forests, open hills, and quiet stream valleys alternate. The beech forests, which are part of the natural forest communities found across much of Central Europe, are particularly impressive.
Those with less time will find numerous shorter loop trails and nature trails. Guided tours led by national park rangers also offer the opportunity to gain a better understanding of ecological relationships.
It’s not just about rare animal species or unusual plants. Often, it’s the seemingly unremarkable things that make up the value of a natural forest: a dead tree trunk teeming with insects, young beech trees growing in the shade of old trees, or a stream that winds its own way.
Vogelsang – From a Military Base to a Learning Center
The former Nazi Ordensburg Vogelsang plays a special role. The complex was built during the Nazi regime and was used for military purposes for decades after World War II. The surrounding area was part of a large military training area.
Today, Vogelsang IP is an international hub for education, community engagement, and remembrance. The historical examination of the Nazi past is just as important as the development of the surrounding landscape.
Valuable open-land habitats have been preserved on parts of the former military base. These areas provide habitat for specialized plants and animals and differ significantly from the adjacent forests.
This example illustrates just how complex nature conservation can be. While natural development is the priority in many forested areas, some open habitats require targeted management to prevent them from becoming completely overgrown with shrubs.
In this context, sustainability means understanding various environmental requirements and acting accordingly.
Getting There and Getting Around – Discovering the Eifel Without a Car
The national park region is accessible by public transportation from Cologne, Bonn, and Aachen. Train stations such as Kall and Heimbach serve as starting points for continuing the journey via regional bus routes.
The national park is also part of the regional hiking trail network. This makes it possible to combine different hikes with bus and train travel without having to return to the starting point.
Of particular interest are itineraries that allow hikers to complete individual stages and then continue their journey by public transportation.
However, transportation in rural areas remains a challenge. Not every starting point is equally accessible, and some routes operate on a limited schedule. Careful planning is therefore an essential part of a car-free trip.
Making public transportation attractive and easy to use—not only for locals but also for vacationers—will be crucial, especially for the future of sustainable vacation destinations.
Wildlife and the Restoration of Natural Habitats
The development of near-natural forests also improves the living conditions of many animal species in the long term.
Wildcats are among the best-known inhabitants of the Eifel. These shy animals need forested areas rich in structural diversity with plenty of places to hide. Black storks, woodpeckers, bats, and numerous insect species also benefit from suitable habitats.
Deadwood plays an important role in this process. While dead trees are often removed from commercial forests, they are left lying on the ground or standing in natural forest ecosystems. There, they serve as habitats for fungi, beetles, and other organisms.
This can sometimes seem unusual to visitors. A forest with fallen trees and dead trunks appears less tidy than a traditional forest. Ecologically, however, it can be significantly more diverse.
This insight, in particular, is one of the national park’s most important messages: A healthy forest doesn’t have to look neat.
Accommodations and Regional Cuisine
There are small hotels, guesthouses, vacation rentals, and family-run inns scattered around the national park. Towns such as Heimbach, Schleiden, and Gemünd serve as ideal starting points for hikes and nature excursions.
If you want to travel sustainably, you can specifically look for accommodations that use locally sourced food, operate in a resource-efficient manner, and provide information on car-free transportation options.
The cuisine of the Eifel is also closely tied to its rural history. Potato dishes, regional meat and sausage specialties, bread, and seasonal vegetables are the hallmarks of traditional Eifel cuisine.
Farm stands and small-scale producers allow visitors to discover local foods. Especially in rural areas with weaker economic structures, tourism can thus create additional economic opportunities.
In this context, sustainable travel doesn't just mean minimizing the impact on nature. It can also help preserve local businesses and jobs.
Sustainability Factor – When Doing Nothing Becomes a Strategy
The Eifel National Park embodies an unusual form of sustainability. While many environmental projects focus on actively shaping nature, a key goal here is to reduce human impact over the long term.
Forests should be allowed to age, trees to die naturally, and new generations to grow without constant management. This creates diverse structures that are often lacking in intensively managed commercial forests.
However, this process takes time. A forest that has been used for commercial purposes for decades or centuries cannot be transformed into a near-natural habitat within just a few years.
That is precisely why the national park is also a project for future generations. Many of the ecological changes being set in motion today will not be fully apparent for decades.
This presents a unique opportunity for tourism. Visitors can not only experience beautiful scenery but also learn about a long-term ecological development process.
Sometimes, nature needs time above all else
The Eifel National Park is not among Germany's most spectacular landscapes. It has no towering three-thousand-meter peaks and no famous glaciers. Its special appeal lies in its more subtle changes.
Former commercial forests are evolving into more diverse habitats. Former military sites are taking on new roles in nature conservation and education. At the same time, surrounding communities are benefiting from tourism that not only makes use of nature but also makes its protection a central part of the experience.
Anyone hiking through the forests of the Eifel therefore experiences more than just a beautiful low-mountain landscape. They discover a region that demonstrates how ecological recovery is possible when natural processes are given room to resume.
Perhaps the most important insight is this: Not every landscape needs to be constantly shaped, maintained, or used for economic purposes. Sometimes, the most sustainable decision is simply to give nature time.
More information: https://www.nationalpark-eifel.de/de/
Next Episode: East Tyrol—The Quiet Side of the Alps, nestled between the Hohe Tauern National Park, traditional mountain villages, and sustainable mountain tourism.












